Mention the Algarve and the name will conjure up an array of images: long, sandy beaches, warm winters, an abundance of golf courses. Quality wine would not be one of them. Portugal is more famous for its fortified version of the product, but even for those in the know it is wine from the north of the country that attracts the attention.
So how can a trip to Portugal’s southernmost region be a gateway to a great viticultural experience? The answer lies at the charming five-star resort of Vila Vita Parc, situated on the coast near Porches, about 40km from the airport at Faro. The resort has everything you would expect from luxury accommodation across its 173 rooms and suites set in 54 acres of beautifully kept gardens.
Yet it is away from these stylish surroundings that Vila Vita provides a neat twist to set it apart. About 80 minutes drive north into the Alentejo region lies Herdade dos Grous — the estate of the cranes — 1,500 acres of beautiful grounds, intriguing wildlife, olive groves and, of course, a vineyard.
A day trip to this spectacular location can take in learning about horse-breeding, organic farming and an insight into wine production. This can be topped off by a chance to taste the wines produced on the estate and a three-course meal, just to check how they complement the fine Portuguese fare, much of which is harvested from the surrounding grounds.
Although it produces a white wine, red is dominant here. Of the wines I tried the Reserve, a full-bodied, smooth red, would score the highest marks, although the more superstitious visitor might want to try a glass of the Moon Harvest red. This is made from grapes picked at moonlight at times determined by monitoring lunar cycles.
While that may seem strange, it is no mystery as to why such fine wine should be produced on this estate. If it takes time and patience to perfect the process from vine to bottle, it is hard to imagine a more tranquil atmosphere to work in.
If a few hours is not enough to slake your thirst for exploring fine wines, back at Vila Vita Parc there is another treat in store. Cave de Vinhos, the resort’s wine cellar, stocks more than 11,000 bottles of wine. The Gothic-style building is a wonderfully atmospheric place to sample vintages, especially if you combine it with dinner.
Above ground Vila Vita has no shortage of other eateries. The best is the Ocean Restaurant, where the work of the chef, Hans Neuner, has been recognised with a Michelin star, and the ever-changing gourmet menu battles with glorious views over the Atlantic to be the most dazzling thing on offer.
At a more rustic but no less impressive level, Adega specialises in traditional Portuguese dishes, which make great use of fish from the Atlantic and very tasty black pork — sourced from pigs fed on a diet of acorns.
There are plenty of things to do to work up an appetite. With swimming pools, tennis courts, volleyball, mini golf and a gym, exercise should be high on the agenda, with a chance to have a massage or simply relax in the soothing atmosphere of the spa should it all get a bit much. For the less active, a walk along the cliffs provides stunning scenery.
For those who really want to spread their wings, there is a chance to head along the coast to the end of the world. Well, the end of the world as perceived by sailors before the 15th century. The Cape of St Vincent near Sagres is the most southwesterly point of the European mainland and is a great place from which to marvel at the wild power of the Atlantic. Closer to the resort is the town of Lagos, on the face of it a fairly typical resort town bustling with holidaymakers, but one with added charm. This comes in the shape of the Church of St Anthony, where an unremarkable exterior hides an interior of intricate and exuberant Baroque design. The town is also a good launch point for a boat trip to explore the wonderful cliff formations of the Algarve coast.
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