Escaping Malta’s Mobs in Peaceful Marsaxlokk
While Malta is one of my favourite Mediterranean destinations, I’ve come to find Valetta a bit dense and overwhelming. Though a dazzling capital city, it sometimes has the knack to be completely overrun. Therefore, nowadays I make my way to a little fishing village, just 35 minutes south from the centre of Valetta. In Marsaxlokk, on Malta’s southern coast, I can find leisure, seafood, plenty to do and unlimited peace and quiet.
Marsaxlokk
Getting to Marsaxlokk is simple, and it’s a rather pretty trip. The road to the village runs straight through vineyards, and in the end arrives to Malta’s second largest natural harbour. To get there, you can take public bus number 27, which runs throughout the day from the station in Valetta. Upon arriving to the village, you’ll see dozens of colourful boats bobbing gently in the harbour. These are the local fishing vessels of the people in the village, which has a population of less than 3,500 residents.
One of my favourite things to do here is to hike along the coast. Heading north along the shore, you’ll have the chance to see a more authentic side of the island. On the 7 kilometre trek to the village of Marsacala, you’ll cross sandstone cliffs with breath taking views down over the Mediterranean. Stop to swim in any number of bays or hidden coves, and catch a glimpse of the little farms and many local vineyards.
Food and Restaurants
A popular draw to Marsaxlokk is the Sunday fish market, where you’ll have a chance to buy the freshest catches of the day. Depending on the time of year, you’ll find tuna, grouper, dolphin, swordfish, octopus and squid. If you’re in the mood for local seafood that’s going to be beautifully cooked, try out some of the local eateries.  Marsaxlokk may not offer you luxury hotels, but you will find it has some of the best  Malta restaurants.
My favourite place to eat is a restaurant called La Capanna, which is located on the road that runs along the waterfront. Popular with the locals, this place is often crowded with Maltese families, and you may be asked to wait. For starters, I recommend the calamari or fried octopus. The fish soup here is delicious, and main courses include red mullet, sea bass, and a local fish called kahlija. I also recommend you try a bottle of the wine; the staff can help you pick a local vintage with your meal. Prices here are moderate, as the quality is superb, but you’ll still eat cheaper than you would over in Valletta. La Capanna is open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 11:30 to 15:00 and from 18:00 to 23:00.
Malta is a fascinating place, full of contrasts and colour – once you are away from the busy tourist spots, you’ll see the real island and get to experience to the best of this unique way of life.
This post comes to Europe and Beyond from writer Bradley Fink
